Canned beans are convenient, but dried beans cost a fraction as much, taste better, and give you a pot of flavorful cooking liquid as a bonus. They take time, but it is almost all unattended.
To soak or not
Soaking overnight shortens the cooking time and helps beans cook evenly, but it is not strictly required. If you forget, you can cook them straight from dry, they just take longer. What matters more is freshness. Beans that have sat in a pantry for years can stay stubbornly hard no matter how long you cook them.
Cook them gently
- Drain soaked beans, cover with fresh water by a couple of inches, and bring to a boil.
- Drop to a bare simmer. A hard boil bursts the skins and turns the outsides to mush before the insides are done.
- Add aromatics like onion, garlic, a bay leaf, or a chunk of ham.
When to salt
There is an old myth that salt makes beans tough. It does not. Salt the water early and the beans get seasoned all the way through. Start tasting around the one-hour mark. They are done when they are creamy and tender but still hold their shape. Let them cool in their liquid so they do not dry out, and save that liquid. It is rich and starchy and makes any bean dish better.