Short ribs are a perfect low-and-slow cut. They are tough and full of connective tissue, which sounds bad until you understand that long, gentle cooking turns that collagen into gelatin. The result is meat so tender it slips off the bone, in a sauce that is rich enough to coat a spoon.
Sear hard, then build the base
Pat the ribs dry, season them well, and brown them deeply on all sides in a heavy pot. Do not crowd them, and do not rush the color, because that browning is most of the flavor. Take them out, then cook chopped onion, carrot, and celery in the same fat until soft. Stir in a spoonful of tomato paste and let it darken.
Deglaze and braise
- Pour in red wine or stock and scrape up every brown bit stuck to the pot.
- Return the ribs, add enough liquid to come halfway up, and toss in a bay leaf and thyme.
- Cover and move it to a 325-degree oven for two and a half to three hours.
The patience payoff
You will know they are done when a fork slides in with no resistance. Lift the ribs out gently. Skim the fat from the sauce, then simmer it on the stove to thicken if it is thin. This dish is better the next day, after a night in the fridge lets the flavors settle and the fat sets so you can lift it right off. Serve over mashed potatoes or polenta to catch the sauce.